Yes, the owners of Curri know how to spell "curry." But they wanted to use an "I" because it represents India, and it's a way to stand out.

The independently-owned Indian restaurant, which opened in late March in a strip mall near 74th and Pacific Streets, stands out in other ways, too.

Unlike some Indian spots in town that offer mostly northern Indian cuisine, Curri boasts a menu as vast and diverse as the Indian subcontinent, with lots of southern Indian choices. There's an array of appetizers, a boatload of bread and biryanis and a whole section devoted to dosas. The menu includes 77 varied items.

The spacious dining room, which seats about 80, means there's no lengthy wait for a table like at my favorite Indian place, a midtown mom-and-pop joint where cozy means cramped.

Curri's central location also sets it apart. As much as I love Indian food, I'd rather not drive across town for it.